And On We Go.

Feb. 5: Still catching up on our trip to Nassau then I can tell you why we ended up flying back to N.C.

285Eleuthera was next on our route. Specifically Spanish Wells which really isn’t on Eleuthera at all, but on St. George Cay, a separate island just north of big island of Eleuthera. Everyone just thinks of it as the most northern stop in Eleuthera. We stayed at Spanish Wells Yacht Haven and were met my Treadwell, the dockmaster who remembered us (at least he said he did) from our days there with Moriarty.

280Spanish Wells is one of the few settlements that does not depend on tourism or cruisers. People here make their living from the sea and Spanish Wells is known as the lobster capital of the Bahamas. You will see more commercial fishing boats than cruisers here-that is unless you are there during the fall and winter when the fishing boats may be gone for weeks at a time. There are services for cruisers and everyone is friendly, but you definitely get the feeling that you’re peripheral to the main agenda.

We shared the dock with Lenny Kravitz’s 60 foot power boat. I admit, I didn’t know who he was, but Google filled me in. Seems he has a house on Eleuthera but keeps his boat at Spanish Wells because of the safe docking here. This day his captain was taking him to Nassau for some business thing. What a hoot to watch, all this crew running around and these big diesel engines powering up. 282

Then, the captain ran the boat aground getting out of the harbor, bent one of the propellers and Lenny had to charter a plane to make his trip. Not a good day for Lenny. I admit we nearly ran aground coming in, we were outside the channel which is actually easy to see if you’re paying attention to the color of the water and not the chart-plotter.

Since Spanish Wells is known for its lobster, we had plenty and at a great price. $22.00 for two big lobster tails, salad, and peas and rice. What a deal.

Spanish WellsSo walking this pretty, neat town and waiting out weather for two days, we headed to Nassau. We put sails up, but the wind died and after a time motor/sailing with just the main, we finally had to furl it too. Nassau harbor is marked by a lighthouse, but it doesn’t compete with the one in Hope Town.288

Now the kicker. We love the stop in Nassau. It’s got a bit of everything including the ever present game of dominos which you can hear before you see it. It’s all about the way the players slam the donminos onto the table. 297

We dock at the Nassau Harbor Club. There’s a Starbuck right across the street (with reliable internet for the price of a coffee) and now a new grocery store, Fresh Market that competes with Whole Food in the U.S. What a treat. But this first day, the head stopped up and we (make that Ed) spent the first entire day working on it, finally removing the outlet hose that carries everything from the toilet to the holding tank. Believe me, you don’t want photos or any more description. Just know that this is every captain’s least favorite job. At least we were in Nassau when this happened.

292But we have discovered our new favorite restaurant, Cafe Matisse. Expensive, but wonderful food and outside garden. 293Complete with a cat named Lulu.

However, after 6 days, and no let up in the wind, we decided to fly home, take care of business and return in 10 days. The flight was the worst of our travels so far. High winds, tornadoes even delayed our flight leaving Atlanta and caused us to circle to wait out a storm before we could land in N.C. Finally home at 1:30 am.

We forgot how cold it is in NC in late January and February and we are ready to head back and continue south to the Exumas.

Jan, Ed and Sable

About ejhowle23

Authors and adventurers, participated in the World Race 2011, an automobile rally from New York to Paris, crossing three continents and 14,000 land miles. Following much the same route as the setting for our debut novel, The Long Road to Paris. This blog describes our own adventures and challenges. And now you can follow our Bahamas sailing adventure that provides the setting for our second novel, Night Watch. Our rally, the African Safari Challenge, crossed five countries in South Africa in May 2014 and in 2015 we participated in the second Trans-American rally this time from Nova Scotia to San Francisco. Spring of 2016 we travelled 28 days around Australia with friends from previous rallies and in the fall participated in our most exhausting rally through Argentina, Chili and Peru- the Rally of the Incas. We were awarded the Against All Odds award. We're still not sure if this was for us or our car. Stewball never broke down and we hardly did. We will soon take on Iceland as a self-drive tour and in the fall of 2017 we will participate in the Odyssey Italia and then back to Africa for a do-over (almost) of the Africa Safari Challenge.
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2 Responses to And On We Go.

  1. Milford Whitaker says:

    Enjoying all the updates…Thanks

  2. TBC says:

    It may be cooler here than in Nassau, but we were sitting out on our deck on Wednesday. Besides, it was a treat to see you back in town, albeit for just a few days.

    Take care,


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